by Johanna Castro
There’s nothing more relaxing than watching sylvan rural scenes drift by from the deck of a canal barge, especially if you’re wining and dining on some of France’s most exceptional produce.
In May I cruised on a small, luxury hotel barge named Finesse, travelling along the River Saône and the Canal du Centre in Burgundy. We wended our way from Chalon sur Saône, a picturesque town in central Burgundy, to the small village of Saint Julian sur Dheune. There were only six guests onboard plus five crew including a private chef. I can honestly say I’ve fallen in love with luxury hotel barging in France.
Barging is slow travel epitomised, blending comfort, scenery, and cultural experiences. Over six tranquil days I discovered why it’s such a unique and relaxing way to explore one of France’s most famous wine regions. It is the perfect vacation for seniors looking to slow down, unpack once, and enjoy the journey as much as the destination.
Onboard dining is a delight, a feast featuring gourmet regional specialties paired with excellent wines. The culinary focus also provides a taste of artisan products and traditions, and you can expect elegant table settings and four course meals, as well as canapes and cocktails and pre-dinner drinks. We also enjoyed watching and learning as our talented chef prepared meals in Finesse’s spacious open galley.
European Waterways operates 18 small barge cruises in nine different countries, so why choose a canal cruise in Burgundy?
Historian, Maurice Chaume said: “Burgundy has a heart, but no limits,” and we soon found out that Burgundy offers a mosaic of beautiful landscapes and experiences. It’s one of the biggest regions of France yet has less than three per cent of the population, making it one of the least populated regions in Europe.
Burgundy’s origins date back to the Middle Ages. Its heritage has been recognised by UNESCO and is rooted in the people, the earth, the climate, the countryside, the terroir and traditions. It’s an area rich with vineyards and agriculture, producing (among many other things) fabulous wines, mustards, and the most delicious cheeses you can imagine. Personally, I can’t go past Époisses de Bourgogne.
Along the route we enjoyed being able to hop off and walk or cycle along the towpath, originally created for barge horses, while the barge slowly chugged along navigating many locks during the course of our journey.
Finesse was built in Northern France in 1950 to carry cargo. Over the years she’s been remodelled, and in 2015 she was transformed to become a sleek, ultra-deluxe hotel barge.
These days there are four spacious suites on the lower deck each with a modern bathroom. Fluffy dressing gowns, slippers, upmarket shower products and three choices of pillow leave you in no doubt that this is a luxury cruise. On the deck above there’s a spacious saloon (lounge) area with panoramic windows that allow you to enjoy the passing scenery whatever the weather. The outside deck features a hot tub and outdoor seating, and there are bicycles onboard too.
You can pop up to the wheelhouse observation deck for the best rear view, and chat to the captain, perhaps sip a glass of wine while he expertly navigates the locks and bridges.
Daily guided excursions by private minibus to nearby places of interest were a highlight.
Our trips included a visit to Beaune and the Hospices de Beaune, a former charitable alms-house founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin as a hospital for the poor.
Another day we visited the fascinating Roman city of Autun, listed as one of the most historic in France.
We also visited the Château Clos de Vougeot, built by monks in the 12th century, where we learnt about the masters of Burgundy wine, the Chevaliers du Tastevin.
On the way to the Château, we stopped to overlook the vineyard of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the most hallowed name in Burgundian wine, and quite possibly the entire vinous world. We were told a bottle of wine from this vineyard will set you back around $40,000.
One morning we were driven down an ancient cobbled street to the oldest wine house in Burgundy, Maison Champy, founded in 1720. Here we enjoyed a fabulous wine tasting before being treated to a sumptuous lunch paired with wines from the vineyard, served privately to us in Cuvé 17, a huge wine barrel, actually an old 20,000 litres wine vat.
We also visited the Château of Germolles for an exclusive tour by the owner. This story-book, privately owned château dates back to the 13th Century and the Dukes of Burgundy, once the private residence of Philippe the Bold and Catherine of Flanders.
If you’re looking for luxury, history, gastronomy, fine wines and tranquillity, then a hotel canal barge cruise in Burgundy offers a charming blend of leisurely travel, cultural enrichment, and culinary delights, all set against the backdrop of one of France’s most beautiful regions. It’s an ideal way to explore Burgundy at a slow, enjoyable pace.
Fast Fact File
Pack casual clothes suitable for layering. Take comfy deck shoes for wearing around the barge and walking shoes for excursions. Pack a rain jacket (umbrellas are provided) and also a smart casual outfit for the Captain’s Dinner.
Did you know that the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold comes from Burgundy? The Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grand Cru 1945 – price: $558,000.
European Waterway’s barges are typically intimate, accommodating small groups of between six to 20 guests. The crew on board usually includes a captain, a tour guide, two hostesses, and a chef.
For more information check out the European Waterways website www.europeanwaterways.com.
Jo Castro was a guest of European Waterways.
About Jo
Jo Castro is a veteran travel writer and blogger who has lived in 11 different countries. For the last 15 years she’s called South West Australia home. She’s worked for magazines and newspapers in England, South Africa and Namibia, and had freelance articles published in over 35 publications worldwide. She created her blog Lifestyle Fifty (lifestylefifty.com) in 2013 to encourage women over 50 to look good, feel good, do good and have adventures.
